Napoleon Square
The large square dedicated to Napoleon has been the seat of noble power since the times of Castruccio Castracani (14th century) and Paolo Guinigi (15th century). The square was opened in 1806 by order of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, Princess of Lucca and sister of Emperor Napoleon. The ambitious project required the demolition of a series of pre-existing buildings in the area: houses, shops, warehouses, a tower, an archive, and even the 16th-century church of San Pietro Maggiore.
The aim, which was perfectly successful, was to give prominence and visibility to the Palazzo dei Principi (today Ducal Palace), the centre of Lucca's public and political life in the 19th century. The square was at the time framed on three sides by an elegant curtain of elm trees, later replaced by plane trees. Maria Luisa of Bourbon, Duchess of Lucca from 1815 to 1824, who continued the work of transformation and beautification of the city, begun by Elisa in the previous decade.
Even today the austere and attentive gaze of the Duchess embraces and watches over the square, dominated by the imposing statue depicting her together with her son. Charles Louis, work by Lorenzo Bartolini from 1843.
Beyond the centuries-old trees are small shops, cafes, restaurants, hotels, historic buildings, crossroads, and scenic openings onto other squares. On the south side, Piazza Napoleone opens onto the unexpected adjacent Lily Square, with the Drama, an important cultural center of the city, which hosts a rich season of music, dance and prose every year.
Going north, from via Beccheria, you can appreciate a splendid glimpse of the bell tower of the church of San Michele in the homonymous square.
On the north side, through an arched passage, you enter the Fish Court, a small and characteristic corner of the city worth a detour. Inside, you can sense the charm of hidden, forgotten places, yet rich in history and traditions waiting to be rediscovered. The two courtyards house old working-class homes with characteristic Roman balconies, wooden beams, and 14th-century facades. As its name suggests, the courtyard was once (starting in the 16th century) the area of the historic center where the lively and colorful fish market was held.
Every summer the concerts of the Lucca Summer Festival with Italian and international stars and thousands of spectators from all over Italy and abroad.
From December until Epiphany, you can stroll through the traditional Christmas market, hunting for gifts, and, to the delight of children and teenagers, go ice skating or ride a retro-style carousel. The stalls then return for the Easter holidays and in September for the traditional Feast of the Holy Cross.